10-20-08 Around the Puuc Ruins

Many ruins are in peoples back yards in Cooperativa. I was specifially interested in these ruins because I read a report that had small note that two or three ruins in the valley here had 'megalighic' walls. Such masonry is very much unlike the typical Puuc style that dominates the area and would date to an earlier epoch. I very much wanted to know if these stones were like the megalithic architecture dating to the preclassic in the south (northern guatamala, and a single site know in southern campeche and southern quinata roo), or if they were like the similar, but different megalithic architecture seen in the north, such as the structure at Ek Balam.

One group was in the back yard of Manuels ex-wifes mother. In there back yard were many Puuc stones reused.

A lintel used as a bench (lintels are large stones used to span a doorway).

A wall that uses capstones. In the Maya vault (corbeled vault) the roof slopes inward. Just before the two sides meet, a flat stone is layed across to compete the roof.

A decorated eve (medial cornice) on the lower story of the palace.

Further back was the remains of a two story palace. A huge building, but in a very bad state of preservation. Many rooms can still be seen though. This group was connected to another group by a precolumbian road. We followed the road until we hit a fence that opened into a feild with a bee keeper and turned back. While I saw many very large stones, I needed to see a wall with these 'megalithic' stones in place to be sure they were the stones I was looking for. So we went down the road to the largest group in the valley at Yaxhom. These ruins are in a very bad state, proabably because they are particularly old. The plan of the city is typical of southern ruins, with an astronomical complex known as an 'E-Group'. These complexes, as currently known are date from the middle preclassic to the begining of the early classic (800BC-350AD). So this ruin was probably build by people from the south and were not Puuc people. We did find the ruin, and the very small wall that is still standing. To my surprise it was not what i would call megalithic at all. It was very much like the masorny from Yookop and around. Very large blocks. Very little to see, but worth the effort for me.

The 'megalithic' wall at Yaxhom.

Next was taking the road south to see some more out of the way Puuc ruins in the area around Xul. I like going off road in the jeep, so i had Manuel take the dirt road south form the ruins at Labna. This road passes though a few large sites, but I was looking to see Kuic, a ruin with many unusual archtectural elements.

In the middle of the forest we passed this old hacienda.

To our suprise we came upon some very fancy houses with solar panels. It was some kind of eco retreat. Very weird in the middle of the forest here. Apparently they kind of bought a bunch of land, including the ruins. Trying, i supose to keep the local people out.

Fancy forest retreat.

I know very little about the ruins at Kuic, but there is work going on now. A very nice place to visit.

Kuic is know for its unique carved doorway columns. I believe these are not seen anywhere else.

A building using these carved columns.

Nice.

An stairway being slowly cleared, only half is exposed.

An early vaulted structure that uses slabs for the roof. This is not a Puuc building.

This building is truly massive. It looks like other buildings but is scaled up to giant proportions. I understand this structure is about to collapse.

A huge Puuc palace. this goes on for twice as far as you can see and there is a collapsed upper story.

Rainclouds were moving in so we had to hit the road, were taking the easy way back, a paved road to Xul. But.....

The paved road is right there! Too bad for the locked gates! What luck, white people closing the road in the middle no place. Who is even comming here? We had some serious talk about cutting the chain. Good thing we did not, we saw the caretaker in town the next day, so weird.

The caretaker assumed me must have a key, why else would be be here. He said we will have to go back the way we came, or try a second road to Cooperativa, but he did not know what it was like and did not want to recommend it. The road the way we came was long and rough, so we tried the new road.

Good god. This is not just the forest, it is the road too. We drove for about half hour until it truly became a forest. Not only the worst 'road' i have ever been on, but Manuel too. What luck. More talk about busting the lock, but Manuel desided to take the road back to Labna.

On the way back we got stuck in the mud. Manuels wife and I pushed it out, she was behind the rear wheel and got totally drenched in the thick slimy mud, i just got sprayed. Manuel was going to sell the truck, but after today he is convinced it is worth haveing. In fack, he could not sell it for $1500 in San Fran, but can get over $2500 for it here.

A great truck!