Thursday, December 18, 2008

11-16-08 Tekax

Tekax, just below Oxkutcab is a very nice town. I took the day to relax, and there was a bullfight in town!

Tekax is the type of town where people sit on the corner backwards in their chairs.

The town center has some great geometric trees.

Bullfighting ring!

A great view from the church.

This bullfight totally was not as good as the last one. First, the ring was huge, the matadors could just hang out and chat when they wanted. Second, the bulls were so well trained they actually tried to get back into their trailers when the cowboys came out!

The snack food at the fights was not so good. Mostly corn type snacks and french fries with slices of hot dogs.

Sweet paint job!

11-15-08 Bus

I decided to see the ruins in southern Quintana Roo in the next leg of my trip, so a bus ride was needed to get back north. I got a ride to Xuphil to catch a bus to Chetumal. Got to Xuphil before 8am. The next bus was not until 11am, but did not actually arrive until 2pm. In Chetumal I transferred to Tekax, arriving about 10pm.

11-14-08 The Ruins of Nadzcaan

Nadzcaan is a huge ruin, one of the largest, but it has been studied very little, but will prove to be very important once research has been started. Only three plazas are cleared, but these
represent only a small fraction of the monumental architecture at the site. Major constructions likely started in the Late Preclassic, and continued though to the late or terminal Classic. Like many ruins in the area it was discovered by looters who removed any carvings they could find.

Nadzcaan is located off the highway up into the hills on a dirt road. I built my bike to take this ride, and it did put my bike to the test. The road had not been traveled in more than a year and there were many downed trees I had to get around, but a great ride.

This is a bridge that must be crossed to reach the ruins.

An early structure with lots of stella. The round stones in front are alters. Stellas are frequently set with alters, a tradition going back to at least 600BC.

An Early Classic temple.

A giant Late Preclassic or Early Classic temple. Not the largest at the site, but the largest I could get to. This is just the bottom of on corner.

A Late Classic structure with a mix of Peten and Rio Bec styles.

Have to love this tetris style stonework. Hard to imagine why somebody would have done such a fine job, but wasted so much time fitting every last stone. I am constantly struck by the Classic Maya spent so much energy on things that appear to have no practical value. Unlike me, THEY certainly knew what they were doing.

Distance rode: 34km

Total: 1683km

11-13-08 Ruins of Calakmul

Calakmul is the largest Classic period city. It reached its height in the Middle Classic (550-700) , a time when it built so many palaces. Calakmul was also a very important Preclassic center. Raised roads connected Calakmul with the giant Preclassic cities in northern Guatemala. The two massive pyramids in Calakmuls main plaza also date to this period.

The ride there approached epic, and put me over 1000 miles!

Calakmul is in the center of a biosphere and there are no hotels anywhere nearby. The campground is the closest place to stay, and that is 55km up the hilly road. Riding both ways and spending the whole day at the very large ruins was very exhausting. The road was very nice though. Many animals including many boars.

Structure 2 is one of the very largest constructions ever made by the Maya. The bulk of it dates to the Late Preclassic.

The base of structure 2.

The base of the main temple atop structure 2. A small section of the horizon is visible.

The base of structure 1, the second super tall pyramid. Calakmul is a modern name which in Maya means 'Two Hills'.

The interior of the Early Classic structure 3. The walls are built of huge well worked blocks, so well built even the wood is still in place after 1500 years.

Calakmul carved more stella than any other site, to date some 120 have been documented. The limestone in the region is very porous , which means it weathers very easily when exposed to the elements. This destroyed most carving, but some did survive. For the most part these preserved stella look like the one above. Its face is smooth because looters used a chainsaw to remove the carved surface.

A few still have glyphs on the sides.

Much work is going on here. Both research and a clear effort to make it an important tourist stop like Tikal.

Distance rode: 105km of hills

Total: 1649km

Friday, November 14, 2008

11-12-08 The Ruins of Manos Rojas and Balamku

I rode the highway west stopping along the way at a roadsite ruin Manos Rojas. There are a few structures here, all badly ruined, but I just stepped off the highway and walked about 50 feet to a single Rio Bec style structure. Only a few incomplete masks left, but from the fallen stones, this building must have been very ornate with a monstermask doorway.

The best remaining mask, one of a stack of masks very much like ones seen far to the north at the Chenes site Xichmook.

This stone was most likey a huge nose the was over the central doorway which proabably had a monstermouth doorway.


The next stop was the ruins of Balamku. Balamku is a Peten style site with Rio Bec style appearing only at the very end. It seemed to me there was much Rio Bec influence in the early buildings, but rescent work has classified this as a Peten site because the ceramic material is consistent with Peten style sites, not with Rio Bec sites. Balamku is a moderate sized site, with three groups of monumental structures, two which are open to the public.

A Late Preclassic-Early Classic temple. In this structure was found the earliest monstermouth doorway, a hallmark of the Rio Bec-Chenes style. This building however is consitered pure Peten style. The remains of the mostermouth doorway are either rebuiried or gone.


The temple at the summit. Unlike Rio Bec architecture because of the rough, nearly unworked stones used and the simple design, no fancy moldings. This structure is well preserved because it was buired by a later construction, much of the later pyrimid is still in place as can be seen at the right. The cut though the center, as I understand is not because the structure collapsed, but becuase looters cut though it.

The inside of the temple showing the crude masory typical of early Peten structures, and very much unlike Rio Bec stuctures.
This is an increadible palace unlike others I have seen. The masonry is in the classic Rio Bec style, but the right and left wings of the palace are done in two different styles. One side is typical Rio Bec (with the false door and curved platform on the right), but the left side is plain, with a Puuc like molding on the platform (but the Puuc almost always used plain platforms with no moldings).
The Rio Bec wing of the palace with a the remains of a 'twin tower' style temple.

The famous frieze uncovered by looters and was found before it was removed. It is hard to believe, but a freize like this turned up in New York City on the black market. It originated from a ruin about 50km south of Xuphil. Looters were able to remove it, pack it and get it all the way to New York. A researcher was approach in an atempt to find a buy and an he turned them in. The freeze is now in the Mexico City museum. This is the upper part of the building, and a door can be seen below.

The masks uncovered at Ek Balam look very much like this, and is probably a good representation of Rio Bec style masks, however this example is probably from the late Early Classic, before the Rio Bec style was formalized. While the masks look mostly red, there is much fine details of paint still visable.

This type of imagry appeared on ceramics around 550AD.

The campsite, I rented the tent.

Distance rode: 73km

Total: 1544km

11-11-08 A Day Off

A mild cold I got was turning worse and I was exhusted when I woke up. I was planning to ride to the west to see some big ruins. It was going to be camping for a few days with a lot of hard rides, and Pablo was getting on my nerves so I decided to take the day off. I told Pablo that I would meet him at the campground tommorow. After an hour I looked out the window and Pablo was just sitting there. I asked him if he was going to make his bus, he said he was not. I told him I needed the day off and he needed to go or get another place. He asked me if I ment I needed a day AND a night off? I was very much not in a good mood. I rode to town to eat a bunch of food, got a bunch of beer, which I started drinking on the ride home and slept most the afternoon.


My shirt after the three day hike to La Muenca. Pretty grey. I had to take my cloths to town to have them professionally washed.

Rode:20km
Total: 1471km

11-10-08 Trying to Get to the Rio Bec Ruins Again

Tried to get the Rio Bec ruins again. What a waste of time, there were no guides around this time. I tried again to find some of the ruins just outside of the small town near the Rio Bec ruins agian with no luck, but the walk though the forest was very nice. These ruins are going to have to wait for next time.

Rode:74km
Total: 1451km